Trail Guide: Hiking the Caldera in Santorini

When you think Greek islands, you think Santorini. Your next thought may be white houses, cliffs, sunsets…but hiking? Yeah, hiking didn’t come to mind when we first decided to go to the Greek islands for our honeymoon, either, but I was really excited to find out there are some really spectacular trails.

Santorini’s Caldera Path was a hiking highlight for us, with six miles of insane views, cool villages and towns, and a giant nutella crepe waiting for me at the end. If this is the only walking you do on Santorini, I would highly recommend our tour guide Nikos Boutsinis.

We opted for Nikos’ Santorini Wanderlust tour that took you through the town of Pyrgos to talk about Santorini’s history, architecture, and culture and decided to do the Caldera walk on our own. I’m so glad we met Nikos first; not only did he give us excellent advice for the best way to do the Caldera hike, but we had so much more historical context and background knowledge about the Caldera and Santorini coastline thanks to everything we learned from Nikos the day before.

The Wanderlust tour was awesome (more on that in a future post), and if you only want to hike the Caldera, have Nikos take you if you can spring for a tour guide.

We followed Nikos’ advice to hike the Caldera from Fira to Oia since we were staying in Oia. This was (unsurprisingly) spot on because we were BEAT after the hike and I can’t imagine having to then wait for a bus, pack on with other sweaty people, do the 15-minute drive back to Oia, and then walk back to our hotel room. I would have just asked Billy to leave me at the bus stop to die.

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Since Fira is also the southern end of the path, and you hike northwest from there, the sun is at your back instead of blasting you in the face. Santorini is really effing hot, so that made a huge difference, as did starting as early as possible. We took the first bus to Fira at 7:30 a.m.

FYI all the school-aged kids also take the first bus to Fira at 7:30 a.m. and the bus driver gives zero effs about “safety” or “how many people can actually fit on this bus.” Be prepared to become intimately familiar with random teenagers and your fellow tourist passengers.

We envisioned a peaceful ride, sitting in the comfy charter bus seat, applying sunscreen like we’d had on all the other buses we’d taken on the islands. No. This was the opposite. But the bus was dirt cheap so we couldn’t complain too much.

Neither of us can read Greek, but as far as we could tell, there were no signs pointing you toward the Caldera path. We just headed uphill from the bus stop, toward the coastline. Overall, signage is not great but as long as you follow the path closest to the water on your left, you’ll be fine.

The Caldera path winds its way through Fira, Firostefani, Imerovigli, and ultimately Oia in addition to plenty of pretty countryside. The views the entire time are stunning, and it’s nice to pass through towns for a bathroom break, more water, and at least one Snickers ice cream bar.

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But let’s be real, six miles is a long ass way to walk. So is it beginner-friendly?

I had done almost zero physical activity for the month prior to our honeymoon, unless you count dancing my pants off at the wedding. I do walk around my neighborhood a lot and bike to work about three times a week, so I like to think I had a good baseline. I also was really excited about the hike, even though I knew it was going to be hard.

And it was. The beginning of the walk had been pretty flat, with a bunch of shade mixed in with scenic views. But there are two really steep stretches later on, and to be totally honest I was pretty over it at the second gigantic hill. I was SO HOT and getting grumpy because I was struggling.

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But then we got to this view and I remembered why I wanted to do this. Santorini is unique; the famous caldera (or cauldron) was formed because of a gigantic volcanic explosion, when much of the island sank under the weight of all the ash. What was left behind are dramatic cliffs around a crescent-shaped bay, and it was one of the coolest things I’ve ever seen.

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Right around my mental and physical breaking point, we saw a church. Aka a place to sit. IN THE SHADE. We had plenty of company in other sweaty, exhausted people which reassured me that I wasn’t the “only one” having a hard time with this. After a few more minutes, my spirits had risen. I could see Oia, our final destination, and I could almost taste the celebratory sparkling lemonade.

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(Seriously, how have I missed out on sparkling lemonade all this time? It’s life-changingly good. On a related note, it is a small miracle I did not have any cavities when I went to the dentist after this trip.)

Overall, the walk was hard. It was sweaty. It took a long time. But the views were insane, and it felt so good to accomplish something that difficult and cool.

You can obviously only do part of the path if you want to, in which case I would recommend starting in Oia, walking just past the aforementioned church to my favorite view (pictured) and then turning back around. Regardless, if you’re planning a trip to Santorini, don’t miss walking at least part of the Caldera. And take a tour with Nikos!

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Billy, Nikos, and me at the end of our Santorini Walking Tours trip. Nikos is the best!!

 

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3 Comments Add yours

  1. Martha Cardon Irmer says:

    Another great blog, Laura! We saw Santorini from a comfy bus with short walks so I’m very impressed that you did the full on rim tour. Keep them coming!

    Like

  2. Aunt Sue says:

    Laura what an amazing adventure!
    Love
    Aunt Sur

    Like

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