Beginner’s Guide to Packing for Alaska

Visiting Alaska was at the top of my bucket list for a long time, but as someone who gets cold easily and doesn’t *love* being wet, packing gave me a little anxiety. The weather is consistently wet and cool in the springtime (Billy and I visited at the end of May). Almost every day had highs in the mid 50s and lows in the upper 40s with a good chance of rain mixed in about half the time.

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We also did a lot of ~excursions~ for this trip, so I had to actually bring some gear instead of just things for lounging. My normal quest to fit everything in one carry on was not gonna happen. Billy and I still managed to get all the gear and extra layers we both needed into one carry-on bag each plus one medium-sized duffel bag that we checked.

We were gone for 11 days, so we made sure to book an AirBnb with laundry. I looked up doing laundry at our hotel and it was literally $4…PER SHIRT. Instead, we just chipped in an extra $5 for utilities at our AirBnb about halfway through the trip.

So, what did I actually pack? Here’s the whole run-down:

Clothing

Shirts and Tops

  • Base Layers (brought 3 long-sleeve, 3 short-sleeve, used all of them): Staying dry and warm can be tough to do in Alaska, so it’s super important to bring base layers that aren’t cotton is super important. I brought three thin long-sleeve shirts, including this wool one from Smartwool that’s my favorite. Wool doesn’t get as smelly as synthetic fabrics, but is also more expensive, so I also recommend REI’s base layers. I also brought three non-cotton t-shirts for warmer days.
  • Mid-Weight Layers (brought 4, used 2-3): A nice mid-weight top and a long-sleeved base layer was perfect for the sunnier days we hiked and for sightseeing days. I could’ve packed fewer, since they didn’t get gross as easily with a base layer underneath. A top similar to the ones I brought is here.
  • Fleece/Heavy Layers (brought 4, used 3): Nice warm fleeces were a must-have for chilly, windy rains. The only reason I ended up not using all four is because the second half of our trip was much warmer. My go-to fleece for chilly days on the water is this one from Patagonia.
  • Versatile Sweater (1, used for dinner and travel): I never travel anywhere cool without a warm, versatile sweater I can throw on to look nicer for dinner or to warm up on the plane.

Pants and Bottoms

  • Long Underwear (1 pair, used multiple times): A VERY handy layer that’s warmer than regular leggings and easy to put on under hiking pants or rain pants. I waited for a nice wool pair to go on sale. I love how warm those Smartwools are, but I don’t love that there’s a lot of extra fabric in the crotch region. They’re not particularly flattering, but I only wore them under another pair of pants so I didn’t care.
  • Waterproof Rain Pants (1 pair, used only for kayaking): Either hiking pants OR waterproof pants are a must. The only time I absolutely HAD to have waterproof pants was for our kayaking trip, but the guide company offered them too. Call ahead to see if your guide service does! (PS, if you’re looking for a guide in Seward, go to Liquid Adventures!) If you’re looking to buy a pair, I like the basic REI ones.
  • Hiking Pants (1 pair, used multiple times): Hiking pants are stretchy like leggings but have pockets and are harder to tear like jeans. But also like jeans, finding a pair that fit and look good can be a journey. I tried on basically every pair at REI and ended up liking their Kornati pants, but they’ve unfortunately been discontinued. I love this pair from Kuhl (disclosure, they were gifted to me for free).
  • Leggings (5 pairs, used all five pairs): I mostly used leggings as a base layer but also used them as my all-the-time pants because I was preggo on this trip and couldn’t button any of my pants (my hiking pants were hanging on by a thread). Alaska is super casual, so I was never under-dressed, but if you want to “dress up” a bit throw some jeans in your bag.
  • Shorts (1 pair, used only as PJs): I brought one pair of shorts and ended up only using them to sleep in. At least this trip I remembered pajamas!

Outerwear

  • Waterproof Winter Jacket (used every day): I have a ski jacket with an interior puffy that zips out, so I didn’t have to also pack a raincoat, which helped me save space. If you don’t have the option of unzipping the inner part of your winter jacket, pack a raincoat separately!
  • Beanie (used every day): Bring a beanie that you can fit your hood over – you’ll want that when it’s super windy or wet.
  • Gloves (used every day): Make sure to bring a light-weight pair to keep your fingers warm, particularly hiking or when you’re out on the water.
  • Buff (used nearly every day): Buffs are an easy and versatile way to add another layer of warmth. It’s basically a strechy tube of fabric you can wear a bunch of different ways. I used mine as a ear warmer for hikes and as a scarf/neck warmer/gaiter whenever we were out on the water. But, if you don’t already have one and tend to run cold, just pack a scarf!

Shoes

  • Hiking Boots or Running Shoes (brought both and used one or the other every day): I brought my waterproof hiking boots and definitely needed them on the many muddy hikes with water crossings. I had trail running shoes on hand for sightseeing or days I didn’t need something waterproof. If you’ll only be hitting the trail with a guide company, they may provide you with waterproof shoes (our kayaking guide and glacier trek guide companies both offered this option).
  • Casual Shoes (brought 1 pair, used for travel days): I also brought a pair of Toms for driving days or other times when it was dry out and I just wanted to let my tootsies breathe. In May, it was never warm enough to have something open-toed.

Undergarments

  • Sports Bras (brought 4, used 4): I personally prefer getting sweaty in sports bras, so I recommend you bring one for each day you know you’ll be doing something sporty before being able to do laundry.
  • Regular Bras (brought 2, used 2): If I brought more sports bras, I could’ve done with just one regular bra. There were plenty of times where I didn’t feel like putting on a real bra, but was too low on sports bras to sacrifice one on a regular day.
  • Socks (brought 8 pairs of varying height, used most of them): I brought two pairs of knee-high super warm socks and only ended up using one pair on the day we went kayaking. Darn Tough’s calf-height hiker socks were my go-to for the entire trip (I brought three pairs). I also brought three pairs of ankle socks, just because I was wearing a lot of leggings and don’t like how high socks look with leggings.

Gear

  • Extra Traction: We brought microspikes but never ended up using them. The only time we needed spikes was on our glacier trek, and the guide company provided crampons (giant spikes) for that.
  • Backpack: I brought a regular-sized backpack to store snacks, my Kindle, and my wallet on the plane and then used it for hiking.
  • Reservoir: I wanted to have plenty of water on hand, so I brought a 1.5-liter reservoir.
  • Hiking Poles: Hiking poles came in super handy for me since I was preggo. Billy ended up not using his much, but I took mine with me everywhere. We both recently got collapsible, lightweight ones, which made them super easy to travel with. Please note we did not try to carry these on.
  • Binoculars! This made a HUGE difference for wildlife watching, and both of us having a pair also made a huge difference in us not fighting over them to see something cool. Let’s be real, there is no affordable way to visit Alaska, so just spend the money and get a pair.

The Other Stuff

  • Sunglasses: Don’t leave home without them!! Even on a cloudy day, being on the water or around a lot of ice/snow makes a huge amount of glare.
  • Hat: I just like wearing hats, particularly to shield my face from the sun or rain. If hats aren’t your thing, skip regular ones, but don’t forget to bring a beanie or other warm option.
  • Reusable Water Bottle or Coffee Mug: I brought a collapsible water bottle, which was super easy to stow in my backpack. I wish I had brought my travel coffee mug. Usually it’s too big of a pain in the butt and I don’t end up using it much, but I drank a lot of coffee on this trip and was totally mortified at how much waste I produced in to-go cups. Try to bring one or the other to reduce your waste!

Overall, I was pleasantly surprised that no matter where we were, there was always a Safeway or gas station or general store where we could get anything we forgot. I thought going to Alaska would be more remote, but it’s not much different than Colorado or any other large state. Stuff is a lot more expensive in Alaska, but if you forget something it’s certainly not the end of the world!

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  • Packing list and more!
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Beginner’s Travel Guide: Three Days in Caye Caulker, Belize

If you look up “relaxing tropical island vacation” in the dictionary, it’s just a picture of Caye Caulker (Caye is pronounced “Key,” FYI). If you want to sip rum drinks, relax in a hammock, soak up the sun, or drift around in some teal blue water, look no further. Caye Caulker was so wonderful I would’ve personally skipped San Pedro altogether for the relaxed, laid back vibe of Caulker.

The only drawbacks are the water taxi ride there and the fact that you’re slightly less in civilization, but that’s not something you should be super attached to if you’re going to Belize in the first place. It’s not like Mexico where you can still hit up McDonald’s or Starbucks. This was only inconvenient when I came down with bronchitis (which should tell you how much I loved Caye Caulker that I still enjoyed it while I had bronchitis).

Getting There

Once you fly into Belize City, you take a water taxi to Caye Caulker. It’s about a 45-minute ride, and while I did have bronchitis while doing it, I think it would’ve been unpleasant even under the best of circumstances. The water taxi between Ambergris Caye (where San Pedro is) and Caye Caulker was much larger and airy. Our water taxi from Caye Caulker back to Belize City was smaller and PACKED, but perhaps they shove less people in when you’re going the other direction?

belize express water taxi on the dock in caye caulker belize. palm trees and bright blue sky in the background.
Let’s just say they fit A LOT of people on here. Like I thought we were going to have to leave people behind…and they just kept shoving them in.

When you get dropped off from the water taxi, you’ll be bombarded with taxi offers, but Caye Caulker is pretty small (everything’s within a mile or so of the water taxi dock) so you can easily walk to wherever you’re staying. There aren’t really many cars, and you don’t have the same level of golf cart traffic as in San Pedro, so it’s very pedestrian and bike-friendly. Once I came down with bronchitis we did get a taxi (actually a golf cart) back to the water taxi station, but we ordered it through our lodging.

Where to Stay

Colinda Cabanas was THE SPOT. It’s a little farther away from “downtown” Caye Caulker, but since they provide bikes it doesn’t matter. The cabanas are super cute, you feel like you’re in a tropical jungle paradise, and the service was fantastic.

lush palm trees frame a collection of bright blue and yellow cabanas leading to the beach in caye caulker belize
Actual heaven, I couldn’t believe this was real.

We did splurge our first few nights on a Beach Front lower suite, which was honestly amazing, but we didn’t really *need* the full kitchen. We never used it. But the beach front deck was the perfect way to start our morning. The splurge was about the price of your average Hampton Inn.

We stayed in a Stand Alone Raised Budget Cabana for the second half of our stay, which was more of a studio apartment with a bathroom, but still really nice. Both had air conditioning (#blessed), private balconies, and hammocks. So how did we spend our time there? Read on:

Day 1

Bike down to Errolyn’s House of Fry Jacks for breakfast to get a taste of a local staple. Fry jacks are basically fried bread, so it’s hard to go wrong. Most importantly, immediately next door is a fruit stand that makes fresh smoothies every morning with any combination of fruit you want. I had one every morning and was never disappointed. They were cheaper and tastier than the smoothie places on the main drag, plus it was an easy way to kill time while waiting for your order to come up at Errolyn’s.

We headed back to our room to eat since it was pretty effing hot and humid even early in the morning. After you’ve got a full belly of fry jacks and smoothie, lather up and put your swimsuit on for a day at the Lazy Lizard. It’s on one side of “The Split,” which is a literal split in the island of Caye Caulker.

Make sure to try their signature lizard drink. It’s some lime green blended concoction that’s delicious and makes you feel very much on vacation. A pastry guy will make the rounds on his bike at least once. His snacks are a steal (bring cash) and delicious so stock up, particularly on the banana bread (it goes fast!). The Lazy Lizard also has its own kitchen you can order from.

We rotated for several hours between the bar, beach chairs, and floating in the clear blue water (or sitting at the bar in the water…Belize thinks of everything!). I thought Lazy Lizard would be much more belligerent than it actually was, so don’t be intimidated if, like me, you aren’t trying to get down with the frat boys.

I know it seems very “basic white girl” but I did get my hair braided. Honestly, I was so sweaty and it was so humid outside that I got tired of dealing with my hair, even in a bun. In retrospect, I would’ve showered before getting my hair done, but we were biking back from the Lizard and I couldn’t wait any longer.

Queen Etty was the most delightful human on the planet and I regretted not getting a picture taken with her, so Billy and I went back on our way home from dinner that night to at least get a picture with the stand.

Getting your hair braided will make you realize how much pain black women go through getting their hair done, but also why cornrows are really great. I just got two french braids, but since my hair is so thin, the braids were about as thick as cornrows. At first I thought I looked ridiculous, but then I didn’t care because my hair was FINALLY out of my face, and then I started to really like them. Plus I looked like I had a sweet perm when I finally took them out at the end of the trip.

After showers and ample time in the air conditioning, we lounged around in the hammocks on the end of the dock at Colinda and read. Top off your first day by going to Chef Juan’s for a laid back dinner. His food is fantastic, but his wife’s key lime pie is the real star of the show. It WILL run out so don’t miss it.

Day 2

If you want a more traditional breakfast instead of fry jacks, try out Amor Y Cafe for a yummy start to the day (and coffee if you need it). Ice N Beans, as you may have guessed from the name, has yummy iced and blended coffee options too.

While at Lazy Lizard, you may have seen another beach establishment called Koko King. It’s the GREATEST. Take the water taxi from Lazy Lizard (the lack of competition concerns in Belize really blows me away) to Koko King in the morning and park it on the beach chairs for the day. You can also float around in an inner tube (highly recommended) or hang out on the swings (very good Insta opportunity) to get some shade.

girl sits on a wooden swing on the edge of a dock in caye caulker belize, with teal water and a blue sky stretching out before her at koko king

Koko King was a little quieter than Lazy Lizard and had much more water access, but keep in mind the food service is slow and you’re stuck on the side of The Split without civilization (it’s just you and Koko King). So maybe just plan ahead a little further than I did (the classic waiting until “I’M STARVING AND HANGRY AND NEED FOOD NOW”).

We came back in time to shower and sleep off the sun exposure before dinner. I was feeling like having a nicer evening and some pizza, so we went to Il Pellicano Cucina Italiana, which was wonderful. They had really good live music and an overall nice, romantic ambiance. It was full of fellow gringos, though, if that’s something you’re not into. For a little more local touch, try Reina’s.

Day 3

If you haven’t already gone to San Pedro and snorkeled, do it from Caye Caulker! You’d be a fool not to go snorkeling while you’re in Belize, and I’ve already written a whole guide for that. Going snorkeling at Hol Chan Marine Reserve is hands down one of the coolest things I’ve EVER done. We went while we were in San Pedro, but our Airbnb host there (who was a pro diver) also recommended Anwar Tours for Caye Caulker trips. Book the morning snorkel trip to get the best chance at nice weather!

At this point, I was in the throes of full-blown bronchitis, so we mostly just napped. If I’d been feeling better, I would’ve gone snorkeling again and spent the afternoon at Koko King. Billy did coax me into leaving our cabana to get some lunch, and his choice of Chef Kareem’s didn’t disappoint.

This place may look suspect since it’s just a guy and his family in a tent cooking up some jerk chicken, but it’s SO GOOD. The BBQ was delicious, Kareem and his family are a delight, and one of his relatives will literally cut a coconut off a tree for you (it’s not free, just fresh and delicious). Make sure to get a good photo op in at the Caye Caulker sign across the street.

One last note: Caye Caulker sunsets are beautiful, but you don’t need to go to Maggie’s Sunset Cafe to experience them. Their service is meh and the view of the sunset is actually quite narrow, so even if you get a table on the dock, you’ve got a bunch of people clamoring around you to get a view and a picture. My advice? Grab a Beliken at the Lazy Lizard and enjoy panoramic views from the sea wall. It’s the perfect way to cap off your trip.

the sky is lit up orange at sunset in caye caulker belize. sailboats are visible on the horizon and the sunset reflects off the water.

Caye Caulker is everything I could’ve wanted in a tropical island vacation. I’d go back in a heartbeat, and still regularly dream about Chef Juan’s wife’s key lime pie. If you want a laidback trip on island time, spend some time in Caye Caulker. I guarantee you’ll be hooked!

Beginner’s Travel Guide: Three Days in San Pedro, Belize

San Pedro is the most popular destination for Americans in Belize (to the point that you can get a protein smoothie just about anywhere). It’s a short plane ride from the main airport in Belize City, full of delicious restaurants, and great for anyone who enjoys a little hustle and bustle while on vacation.

The drawback of San Pedro? There isn’t much of a beach scene. But if you like adventure (but don’t like getting places efficiently) you can rent a golf cart to make the trek to Secret Beach. Belize is a place I would absolutely go back to; here’s how I spent three days in San Pedro with my hubby.

Getting There

Belize is an easy flight from most places in the US. Once you fly into Belize City on a regular airplane, you take a terrifyingly small plane to Ambergris Caye (key not cay), where San Pedro is located. I sobered up very quickly (thanks Southwest drink tickets) when I saw the little baby plane we had to get on – Billy practically bent in half just to get on it. But the ride was smooth and the views were insanely gorgeous.

view from airplane flying over the caribbean sea to san pedro belize

The San Pedro airport is tiny but surprisingly busy. We were walking distance to our Airbnb and quickly learned that the streets of San Pedro aren’t the most pedestrian-friendly. There are golf carts EVERYWHERE, to the point that it’s like being in regular car traffic as they buzz all around you.

Note: I consider anything within 3/4 to a full mile walking distance, particularly somewhere like Belize where you’re at sea level and it’s flat as a pancake.

Where to Stay

To be upfront, wherever we go, we don’t look for the fanciest accommodations. We basically look for the most affordable that’s still doable and relaxing. However, it is worth it to spend money on air conditioning if you’re there for the winter. We went in February 2018 and I personally wouldn’t have been able to sleep at night without air conditioning.

We loved our AirBnb, Zen Belize. Sure, it was basic, but it was a great studio and Frank was a fantastic host. He set us up for snorkeling (more on that momentarily) and was full of local suggestions. Plus, there are yoga classes on the top floor of the building in the morning that we got to attend for free as guests.

**As of March 2020 it looks like Frank is no longer the owner of Zen Belize, but there is still a room available. I can’t guarantee the same experience, but linked to the new listing above.**

Day 1

Grab breakfast at Estel’s (walk along the beach to avoid golf cart traffic). Be prepared for the seaweed in the morning – it’s a little bit smelly, but there are seemingly endless people employed to rake it away (I’m not sure how I feel about this). We happened to be there during an especially bad week for seaweed, but we didn’t mind.

The darker brown between the sand and the water is seaweed.

Estel’s breakfast is phenomenal. We made sure to order fry jacks, a quintessential Belizean food. It’s basically fried bread…and it’s SO good. I got banana pancakes, and of course assumed the bananas would be on the pancakes, so when they arrived seemingly banana-less I flagged down our waiter. I immediately felt like that annoying white lady because the waiter politely told me they were…in the pancake mix. After realizing the error of my ways (and blushing just a little bit), I enjoyed some ridiculously good banana pancakes.

Ramon’s Village Resort is a fancy resort right on the beach, but if you buy a drink at the bar, you can lounge in their beach chairs. Seaweed or no seaweed, all I cared about was the sun, palm trees, a good book, and a nice rum drink. I finally felt like I was thawing out from the Denver winter.

Hang out at Ramon’s for as long as you like. We left in time to make sure we could do a beach walk with some shelter dogs. The local animal shelter lets you take the adoptable pups out for a stroll! Zen Belize is right by the Saga Humane Society, so after some time in the air conditioning and a quick change, we walked over. The staff is super friendly, and you can pick whichever dog(s) you like to go for a walk. They’ll tell you a little about them and then hand over the leash.

woman walking on the beach of san pedro belize with a small dog from saga humane society

Word of warning: we were very close to bringing a dog home with us (that we so don’t have the ability to take good care of) so make sure to bring your willpower! The dogs love getting out and you can tell that the time to stretch their legs and get loved on totally makes their day.

After a shower, hit up Hungry Grouper for dinner. This place is so good we went back multiple times. Get any fish blackened or the garlic shrimp, and don’t miss the coconut cream boat dessert. My mouth is watering just thinking about it.

Woman enthusiastically eats a coconut boat dessert from the Hungry Grouper restaurant in San Pedro Belize
My future as a food blogger is bright.

Day 2

Rent a golf cart and head to Secret Beach. Buckle in for a LONG drive. It’s slow and even bumpier than you’re imagining. We stopped halfway at Akbol Yoga Retreat and Ecoresort for lunch, and after a few rum drinks, the drive seemed more tolerable (not so for my sober husband driving). Secret Beach was totally gorgeous, but just be emotionally prepared for a long drive home that you really wish could go smoother and faster.

Despite the name, “Secret Beach” is not secret at all. There are signs at multiple locations along the way, and it has a bit of a tourist trap feeling when you get there with multiple bars next to one another. But after the journey, it’s still a nice escape from the craziness of San Pedro and it’s pretty much the only real beach on Ambergris Caye.

colorful wooden beach chairs line the shore of secret beach in san pedro belize on a sunny day framed by a palm tree frond
The view from Secret Beach wasn’t bad.

We didn’t come back until dinner time, and went back to the Hungry Grouper. Tragically, they were out of coconut cream boats that night, but the blackened snapper was so good that I didn’t even mind. If you don’t want to go to the same restaurant two nights in a row, we also heard great things about several other places including Elvi’s Kitchen and Caroline’s Cookin.

Day 3

Snorkeling is a must do while you’re in San Pedro, and I’ve already written a whole guide for that. Going snorkeling at Hol Chan Marine Reserve is hands down one of the coolest things I’ve EVER done, so book with Belize Pro Dive Shop and thank me later. Book the morning snorkel trip to get the best chance at nice weather, and nap it off once you’ve gotten back.

boats sit on teal tropical water under a bright blue sky in belize
My amateur photography will do no justice to the underwater view. Just Google it.

Once you’ve napped and showered and are ready to hit the town again, head over to the Palapa bar. The food is just okay, but the real fun is the floating inner tubes (with a pulley system to get drinks delivered to you). You’ve got nearly 360-degree views of teal blue water and the drinks are yummy. Try the electric lemonade (as long as you have no shame about your mouth turning blue…I didn’t). Don’t forget your sunscreen. It’s easy to forget how hot it is when you’re partially submerged in the water (which, might I add, was the perfect temperature in late February).

a couple stand in front of the turquoise water at the palapa bar in san pedro belize. Children on inner tubes float in the water behind them.
Narrowly avoided sunburn thanks to putting my tank top on. Central American sun doesn’t mess around!

San Pedro has a lot of great restaurant options, but I was hellbent on getting some coconut shrimp after breaking out of land-locked Colorado. Blue Water Grill delivered, and although drinks were on the pricier side, it’s right on the beach and the food was delicious. A great way to cap off your three days in San Pedro! Whether you’re headed inland or to another beach town, San Pedro is the perfect introduction to this amazing country.

Beginner’s guide to Hol Chan and Shark Ray Alley Snorkeling

Snorkeling Hol Chan Marine Reserve and Shark Ray Alley was one of the top five coolest things I’ve ever done. It put Florida to shame. I did chicken out of “truly” experiencing Shark Ray Alley (more on that later) but snorkeling around Hol Chan was like being in an episode of Planet Earth. It’s an amazing experience and can’t-miss part of visiting Belize.

But if you’ve never been snorkeling before, or it’s your first time in Belize, you may need a little help knowing what to expect.

How to get there

San Pedro is the most popular destination for Americans going to Belize. It’s the major city on Ambergris Caye (pronounced Key, not Kay) and is the easiest starting point for a snorkel trip to Hol Chan and Shark Ray Alley. You can also get there from Caye Caulker, it’s just a bit longer of a boat ride. There are plenty of dive shops on both islands.

Where to book your tour

Our AirBnb host (a former pro diver) booked us a snorkeling trip with Belize Pro Dive Center. The office staff was incredibly professional and our guides were equally fantastic. Getting checked in was a smooth process, and our captain Jason (I can’t remember our other guide’s name…I’m a jerk) was very safety-conscious. There were two dedicated snorkel guides (including Jason) and one dedicated scuba guide for our group of about 15 snorkers and four divers.

There are two trips each day. Book the morning one since tropical weather can be unpredictable and you’re much more likely to get nice weather earlier in the day. The tour cost $40 per person in 2018 for the 2.5-hour snorkel tour and gear.

What the tour includes

The tour includes a long stop at the Hol Chan Marine Reserve, a 10-minute or so ride to Shark Ray Alley where you have a shorter stop, and then back to the dive shop. Even though the tour is “only” two and a half hours, the dive shop staff had plenty of snacks and water on board, which was a nice touch.

Belize Pro Dive Center provided all the gear we needed, including a life jacket. I would highly recommend swallowing your pride and opting for the life jacket unless you’re a really good swimmer.

The children in the background were the only other ones to sport this lovely life jacket set up (around your waist helps you float more evenly and be able to keep your mask in the water)

You aren’t doing strenuous swimming, but you are swimming and out of the boat for 30 minutes or more. Billy was fine, but I was extremely grateful I had a life jacket on (around my waist #fashion) because I wouldn’t have felt comfortable without it. The snorkel guides also brought a little floating ring for people to hang on to if they got tired.

What you should bring

SUNSCREEN. And then don’t forget to re-apply it a million times. Your back is facing the sun the entire time, but you don’t feel it get hot because you’re in the water. The Belizean sun doesn’t eff around, so don’t be shy! Ideally, use some sunscreen that won’t hurt the coral reef (they sell it at the dive shop). The boat is covered, so you will get a break from the sun when you’re out of the water.

Also bring a towel and flip flops. We decided to bring one of our phones (and then ended up not really taking many pictures) and a bag with one of our wallets in it, too, since we obviously needed a way to pay.

There are benches on the boat that you can put your stuff under, and you don’t need to worry about stuff getting stolen since it’s just a small group of tourists and guides. Still, we didn’t want to bring anything we didn’t have to – it’s much less stressful!

The actual snorkeling

After getting on the boat, you take a 10-minute ride out to the coral reef, so you are out in the open water. But, it’s very shallow and there isn’t a strong current, so it wasn’t intimidating. The water is insanely clear and (in late February) also pretty warm. The water temperature was 80 degrees, which I thought would feel like being in a bathtub, but it was really refreshing! It was definitely warm enough that I didn’t feel cold while still in the water. Plus, you forget about any water temperature concerns once you see the coral reef exploding with marine life. It’s bananas.

One of the reasons I really loved our guides at Belize Pro Dive Center is that they were super knowledgeable about the coral reef and all the animals that lived in it. They were excited to point out different fish to us and did a great job of keeping the group together while also letting us explore a little bit. I’m a total animal nerd, so I was eating up everything our guide was telling us about different types of coral and fish and animals. It was amazing!

However, just know that you won’t be by yourself. All the other dive shops head out around the same time, so there’s lots of other groups. It seemed like the guides all had a good system to rotate around the reef so we weren’t all on top of each other. It only felt annoyingly crowded a few times, but there’s nothing you can do about that and it’s totally worth putting up with for the overall experience.

When we got to Shark Ray Alley, for some reason, the water was pretty murky and much colder even though in all the photos I’ve seen of it, the water is totally clear and beautiful. Maybe we just got unlucky. This was the one time I felt cold in the water and kind of wanted to get back out, but that’s probably more because I was feeling pretty nervous.

Ok so about the nurse sharks

The reason Shark Ray Alley is named as such is because nurse sharks congregate there. Historically, fisherman dumped the leftovers at the end of the day (yum, blood and guts) so the sharks have a Pavlovian response to even just the whir of boat engines.

A lot of people think this is a cool tourist attraction because you can be surrounded by these totally harmless sharks and it’s a ~crazy~ exhilarating wildlife experience. My fear (let’s be honest, it’s a phobia) of large animals in the water is still something I’m working on, so I don’t have a story of persevering and getting past my fears.

My big victory was even just getting in the water when the sharks were in the general vicinity. I let everyone else go on ahead to swim to the boats actually feeding the sharks (not our guides), but I hung back and tried to control my heart rate. Fortunately, this was pretty easy to do since our boat wasn’t actually feeding them. If that had been the case, I would’ve just stayed in the boat and watched from the deck.

One of my friends told me she just told herself over and over again that she wouldn’t be scared if she was in a swarm of puppies. Because of that, she stayed calmed and enjoyed the experience of being in the mix with the sharks. A swarm of anything (even regular fish) in the water freaks me out, no matter whether they are carnivores or vegetarian.

So whether you pretend that sharks are puppies or just sit back and enjoy them from a distance, snorkeling at Hol Chan and Shark Ray Alley will be a highlight of your Belizean vacation. Leave a comment if you have questions and have a blast!

The best headlamps, lanterns, and campground lighting for beginners

Not to state the obvious, but it gets pretty freaking dark when you’re out in the woods. I’m a big advocate of using what you have, but if your phone’s flashlight is no longer cutting it for you, it could be time to get a headlamp or lantern. They’re way brighter and are a pretty cheap way to make seeing things in the dark much easier.

Bonus: All the products in this blog are 25% off for Labor Day Weekend 2021!

Headlamps

If you’re choosing one or the other, I would start with a headlamp since you can go hands-free with one. This is handy for going to the bathroom in the dark, fumbling for your car keys, or trying to assemble the perfect s’more.

I also use a headlamp for running in the winter time because my neighborhood was built before electricity existed and once it arrived, apparently no one thought adding streetlights was important. Running with my phone’s flashlight was way too difficult to keep the light beam where I needed it.

The Black Diamond Cosmo headlamp is a perfect starter headlamp. It’s really comfortable to wear, easy to adjust, and extremely bright (or not…it’s got a dimmer!). It’s lightweight enough that I can wear it running, and it can take a beating if you’re accident-prone like me.

The dimmer and multiple light settings are really handy, if not super easy to toggle between (my only complaint about this headlamp). The red light is nice if you’re getting up in the middle of the night, or if you’re trying to preserve your night vision since it doesn’t make your pupils shrink up like white light does. I personally have terrible night vision, so I can’t use this setting.

Lanterns

Black Diamond’s Orbit Lantern is my favorite because it’s small but mighty. I can’t find them online anymore, but the Moji lantern is another great pick that I use all the time while camping.

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Pocket sized and powerful…like an Olympic gymnast.

My husband and I actually thought we had ordered a regular-size lantern….until the box arrived. We were extremely skeptical of this ant-size lantern, but we took it camping that weekend and immediately loved it. 

There are metal hooks on the top that let you hang it from the ceiling of your tent, and it was bright enough to see everything while getting settled down for the night. It’s bright, but not blinding, and since it’s so tiny it was easy to fit in our bag.

I got a set of Moji lanterns for Christmas, and I’ve loved having multiple tiny, bright lights. I’ll stick one on the picnic table, hang one in the tent, and put another in the car or on the outside of the tent so I can see where I’m going.

No matter which option you choose, headlamps and lanterns can go a long way in making camping a more fun experience. But if you’re on budget, don’t worry, your phone’s light will do just fine! Just don’t forget the charger!